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| As can be see from the pictures the front wheel is in very poor condition. Once I had the
engine out the way and sticking to my system of doing the worst first I decided to do this wheel
next. As I have never respoked a wheel before I decided to leave the rear wheel intacked to use as pattern The spokes will be zinc and the hub hand polished |
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| As you can see the chrome plater I used has really pulled one out of the hat. He told me not to expect to much but that he would do his best and he did. He had to first copper plate the rim then polish it then go through the whole thing again all this before it could have the final chrome plating. Chrome plating is more of a art than a science so if you can find a good plater keep hold of them. Remember this is going to be one of the most expensive parts of the job. But don't cut corners as it is all so the most visible. Below is a picture of the rim as it look the day I picked it up after being chrome plated the other shows the wheel spokes and hub fitted but still needing to be set up |
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| The picture below show how I used the forks on the bike to
set up the wheel.This is a job that had me a little spooked but the truth is that it's not that bad. Once I had all the parts back I laid the rim on the ground. I put the hub in the center laid the back wheel next to it ( I used this as a pattern ) then starting with the inner spokes (it important not to mix the inner and outer spokes as they are different) I threaded one at a time through the hub then using the back wheel as a guide I found the right hole in the rim. (the hole in the rim should face in the right direction for the spoke) Once the first one was in place I repeated this in every second hole in the hub with the other end of the spoke going in to every fourth hole in the rim.(make sure that you only screw the cap on to the spoke one or two turns) Turn over the wheel and repeat on the other side. Once all the inner spokes are in I did the outer spokes first one side then the other. Once I had done this I started to move around the wheel tightening the spokes two or three turns at a time till they just nipped up. I was now ready to true the wheel up. To do this I put the wheel on to the forks |
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| The pictures above show how I did the initial setting up using
very basic equipment. After fitting the wheel back to the bike I spun the wheel to see to how far out it was. I was pleased to see that it looked pretty good though it was about 4mm to far to one side ( this is the advantage of using the forks it makes easy to check that the wheel is centered you just measure the gap on either side of the wheel)to fix this I went around the wheel and tightened the spokes one turn at a time on one side of the wheel till the rim was centered. Once the wheel was centered I used a ruler as shown in the second picture with the ruler placed here I could spin the wheel and watch the gap if the wheel was circular then the gap would have stayed the same it didn't so this was the next job by tightening the spokes at the high point and if necessary loosening at the low point. Once I had this right I could start to work on the wobble. For this as can be seen in the third picture I used a very cheap plastic vernier gauge and this worked very well indeed. the process is the same as for centering the rim tighten on one side and loosen on the other it took a little time but I got it right.The last thing to do is to recheck the whole lot again to see if any thing has move and adjust as required. As a last check I borrowed a dial gauge from a friend at work to double check |
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